June 8 – 17, 2025
Japan
Tokyo · Hakone · Osaka
Suggested Plan
June 8 – 12
Tokyo
One of the world's great cities — simultaneously ancient and futuristic, intensely urban and surprisingly quiet in its hidden corners. Pick what resonates; no single group should attempt everything here.
Neighbourhoods
Yanaka
Survived the 1945 firebombing largely intact. Narrow lanes, wooden shopfronts, independent craftspeople, and a large cemetery where many Edo-era figures are buried. Mostly visited by Japanese people — one of the most authentic pockets of old Tokyo.
Kagurazaka
Former geisha district with a layered character — French cafés alongside traditional restaurants, and narrow stone alleys (yokocho) leading to hidden courtyards. Best explored on foot in the early evening.
Shimokitazawa
Bohemian neighbourhood of vintage clothing shops, small live music venues, and independent bookshops. Strong local character, popular with younger Japanese residents.
Akihabara
The electronics and anime district — a sensory overload of neon signs, multi-storey electronics shops, and gaming arcades. Fascinating as a cultural artifact of Japan's technology obsession.
Ryogoku
The sumo district — home to the Kokugikan arena, several sumo stables, and the Edo-Tokyo Museum. A quieter, working-class neighbourhood with excellent chanko nabe restaurants.
Cultural & Historical Sites
Meiji Jingu Shrine
A forested Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. The 70-hectare forest creates a remarkable sense of remove from the surrounding city. Serene and beautiful; best in the morning.
Senso-ji Temple, Asakusa
Tokyo's oldest and most famous temple, dating to 628 AD. The approach along Nakamise-dori is tourist-heavy, but the temple complex itself — particularly early morning or evening — retains genuine atmosphere.
Yasukuni Shrine & Yushukan Museum
One of the most historically significant and politically complex sites in Japan. The Yushukan Museum presents Japan's modern military history from a strongly nationalist perspective — the closest thing to an unfiltered, Japanese-centric account of the war. Not a comfortable experience, but a genuinely illuminating one.
Imperial Palace East Garden
A beautifully maintained public garden on the grounds of the Imperial Palace. The stone walls and moat of the original Edo Castle are visible throughout. Low effort, excellent for a morning walk.
Edo-Tokyo Museum
Covers the history of Tokyo from the Edo period through the postwar era, with large-scale reconstructions of historical streetscapes. Check current renovation schedule before visiting.
Sports & Live Events
Sumo Stable Morning Practice
Several stables in Ryogoku allow visitors to observe real early morning training sessions. The wrestlers train with intense focus and physicality while visitors observe in complete silence. Raw, close, and genuinely unlike anything available in the West. Strict etiquette required — no talking, no standing, no eating.
Sumo Experience Dinner
Openly tourist-oriented evening events combining a chanko nabe dinner with a demonstration of sumo techniques, Q&A with a former wrestler, and sometimes the chance to try a few moves yourself. Genuinely fun and informative. Several operators run these in Ryogoku. Both the morning practice and the dinner can be done on the same trip.
Yomiuri Giants Baseball at Tokyo Dome
The Giants host home games June 9–11 (vs. Orix) and June 12–14 (vs. Lotte). The atmosphere is unlike American baseball: coordinated chants, trumpet fanfares for each batter, and an intensity of organised fan participation that is fascinating to witness. Outfield cheering section seats are the most atmospheric and the cheapest.
Unique Experiences
Yakatabune Dinner Cruise — Tokyo Bay
A traditional Japanese houseboat dinner cruise on Tokyo Bay, typically lasting 2–3 hours. Views of the Rainbow Bridge, Tokyo Skytree, and the city skyline from the water. Japanese food served on board. A relaxed, elegant, low-effort evening activity. Book in advance, particularly for groups.
Yakuza History Walk — Kabukicho
The Kabukicho district in Shinjuku is the historical heart of Tokyo's organised crime world. A self-guided evening walk through neon-lit streets, hostess club alleys, and yokocho (narrow bar lanes) offers a visceral sense of the post-war underworld that shaped modern Tokyo. The area is safe for tourists but has an unmistakable edge. Jake Adelstein's book Tokyo Vice provides excellent background reading.
TeamLab Borderless
Immersive digital art installations in a new location at Azabudai Hills. Genuinely unlike anything else in the world. Tickets must be booked well in advance online — sells out quickly.
Tsukiji Outer Market
The outer market remains in Tsukiji and is excellent for a morning breakfast or snack. Best visited early (before 9 AM). Excellent tamagoyaki (egg) shops and other non-seafood options alongside the fish stalls.
WWII & Modern History
Focused History Itinerary
For those with a specific interest in Japan's 20th-century history: (1) Yasukuni Shrine and Yushukan Museum for the nationalist perspective on the war; (2) A walking tour of Ueno, Asakusa, and Ryogoku, which preserve the most pre-war and immediate postwar urban fabric; (3) The bookshops of Jimbocho, Tokyo's famous used-book district, with an extraordinary selection of English-language titles on the war, the occupation, and the postwar period.
June 11 – 12
Hakone
A mountain resort town set within the caldera of an ancient volcano, approximately 90 minutes southwest of Tokyo. Volcanic valleys, a large caldera lake, and — on clear days — unobstructed views of Mount Fuji. A car is strongly recommended for flexibility.
Key Experiences
Lake Ashi Cruise
The lake sits in the ancient volcanic caldera and offers views of Mount Fuji across the water on clear days. The famous 'pirate ship' sightseeing vessels are a quirky local institution. The Hakone Shrine torii gate, which appears to float in the lake, is visible from the water.
Hakone Ropeway
Crosses the active volcanic Owakudani valley, with views of sulphur vents, boiling mud pools, and — on clear days — Mount Fuji. The kuro tamago (black eggs hard-boiled in the volcanic springs) sold at Owakudani station are a local specialty. Note: occasionally closed due to volcanic activity.
Hakone Open-Air Museum
An outdoor sculpture park featuring works by Picasso, Henry Moore, Rodin, and Japanese artists, set against mountain scenery. Paths are paved and manageable. A genuinely distinctive combination of world-class art and natural landscape.
Hakone Shrine
A forested Shinto shrine on the shore of Lake Ashi, with a dramatic approach through ancient cedar trees. The lakeside torii gate is one of the most photographed spots in Japan. The shrine dates to 757 AD.
Scenic Driving
The roads around Hakone — particularly the Ashi-no-ko Skyline and the Fuji-Hakone road — offer spectacular mountain and lake views. A car is essential. The drive from Hakone to the Fuji Five Lakes region (approximately 45 minutes) extends the scenery further if time allows.
Accommodation: Ryokan
Overnight Ryokan Stay
Staying overnight in a traditional Japanese inn is one of the most distinctive experiences available to visitors. A high-quality Hakone ryokan offers tatami-floored rooms (Western-style beds available on request), kaiseki dinner served in-room or in a private dining space, traditional Japanese breakfast, and mountain views. Yukata (cotton kimono) are provided for wear within the inn. Strongly recommended for anyone who has not experienced it.
June 13 – 16
Osaka
Louder, more direct, and with an almost aggressive pride in its food culture. Osaka residents are known for their warmth and willingness to talk to strangers. The city is more compact than Tokyo, and its street food culture is unmatched in Japan.
Neighbourhoods
Dotonbori
The most famous district — a canal-side strip of neon signs, restaurants, and street food stalls. Tourist-heavy but genuinely vibrant, particularly in the evening. The giant mechanical crab, the Glico running man sign, and the dense concentration of restaurants make it an essential first-evening destination.
Shinsekai
A retro district built in 1912, now with a wonderfully faded, working-class character. The Tsutenkaku Tower, kushikatsu restaurants, and the general atmosphere evoke post-war Japan more vividly than almost anywhere else in the country. Mostly visited by Japanese people.
Namba & Shinsaibashi
Osaka's main shopping and entertainment corridor. Shinsaibashi-suji is a covered shopping arcade stretching for over a kilometre, with everything from luxury boutiques to 100-yen shops.
Nakazakicho
A small neighbourhood of renovated old townhouses now occupied by independent cafés, vintage shops, and small galleries. A quieter, more contemplative alternative to the main tourist areas.
Cultural & Historical Sites
Osaka Castle
The city's most iconic landmark — a white castle tower rebuilt in 1931 on the site of Toyotomi Hideyoshi's original 16th-century fortress. The museum inside covers the Sengoku period and the Siege of Osaka in considerable detail. The surrounding park is large and pleasant for a walk.
Peace Osaka
Documents the devastating Allied air raids on Osaka in 1945, which killed tens of thousands of civilians. The exhibits present the war from a Japanese civilian perspective — the suffering, the propaganda, the mobilization of civilians, and the aftermath of defeat. A sobering and important counterpoint to the sanitized, Western-friendly framing common in many war museums.
Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine
One of Japan's oldest and most important Shinto shrines, predating the influence of Chinese architectural styles. Its distinctive sumiyoshi-zukuri architectural style is unique. Less visited by tourists than Osaka Castle.
Day Trips
Nara — Deer Park & Ancient Temples
Japan's first permanent capital (710–784 AD), 45–50 minutes by train. Over 1,200 sacred deer roam freely through the park, bowing to visitors in exchange for deer crackers. Tōdai-ji Temple houses the world's largest bronze Buddha (15 metres tall) inside the world's largest wooden building. Kasuga Grand Shrine, established in 768 AD, is famous for its thousands of bronze and stone lanterns. Significantly less crowded than Kyoto with a more genuinely local feel.
Kyoto — Optional Day Trip
Japan's former imperial capital is 15 minutes by Shinkansen or 30–45 minutes by regular express. Recommended highlights: Fushimi Inari Taisha (visit before 7 AM or after 6 PM to avoid crowds — the thousands of torii gates are extraordinary); Nishiki Market for a morning browse; Daitoku-ji Zen temple complex with beautiful dry rock gardens, far less visited than the main tourist sites.
Food in Osaka
Kuidaore — Eat Until You Drop
Osaka takes its food culture more seriously than perhaps any other city in Japan. Key dishes to try: Okonomiyaki (savoury pancake, $5–$10); Takoyaki (octopus balls, $3.50–$5.50 for 6–8 pieces); Kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers, $0.70–$1.70 per skewer — do not double-dip in the communal sauce, a cardinal rule); Yakiniku Japanese BBQ ($14–$34 per person); Ramen ($5.50–$8 per bowl); Udon ($4–$7 per bowl).
Practical Information
Flights
- ›Arrive HND — June 8, 1:35 PM
- ›Depart HND — June 17, 5:45 PM
Getting Around
- ›Shinkansen Tokyo→Osaka ~$95–$100/person
- ›Metro IC card: $1.20–$2 per ride
- ›Car rental: $55–$100/day (recommended for Hakone)
Money
- ›Japan is largely cash-based
- ›Use 7-Eleven or Japan Post ATMs
- ›No tipping — ever
June Weather
- ›Rainy season (tsuyu) — bring an umbrella
- ›Tokyo/Osaka: 64–82°F, high humidity
- ›Hakone: low-to-mid 60s°F, often misty
Food
- ›Casual meal: $5–$10/person
- ›Mid-range dinner: $17–$40
- ›Kaiseki tasting menu: $100–$350+
Book in Advance
- ›Ryokan: 2–4 months ahead
- ›Sumo stable practice: 1–3 months
- ›TeamLab Borderless: 1–2 months
Book in Advance
| Activity | Lead Time | Approx. Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Sumo stable morning practice | 1–3 months | $35–$70/person |
| Sumo experience dinner | 2–4 weeks | $70–$120/person |
| Luxury ryokan in Hakone | 2–4 months | $200–$550+/person/night |
| Tokyo Dome baseball tickets | 2–4 weeks | $12–$57/person |
| Yakatabune dinner cruise | 2–4 weeks | $80–$135/person |
| TeamLab Borderless | 1–2 months | $22/person |
Useful Apps
Google Maps
Navigation — download Japan offline maps
Google Translate
Camera translation of menus & signs — download Japanese offline
Tabelog
Japanese restaurant reviews — more reliable than Western apps
Suica / Pasmo
Load onto iPhone/Android wallet for seamless transit payments
Hyperdia
Detailed train route planning including fares
Japan Official Travel App
General travel information and emergency alerts